Inside Goomheo’s Rule-breaking Take on Genderless Fashion

LONDON — South Korean vogue designer Goom Heo, who was shortlisted as a person of the 19 semifinalists for this year’s LVMH Prize for Young Designers, does not care how the market categorizes her operates.

Her edgy, subversive, and genderless styles, built mainly by draping straight on the overall body, had been a strike amid the London manner group right after she received her 2nd L’Oréal Qualified Award for her MA graduation assortment.

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She was the initial college student in Central Saint Martins’ history to be awarded the top prize 2 times. She initial bagged the honor in 2017 with her BA graduation collection.

Lulu Kennedy produced her an give to sign up for the younger designer aid method Fashion East soon following her graduation.

She confirmed with Vogue East for 4 seasons, from drop 2020 to spring 2022, generally digitally owing to COVID-19. Points became far more difficult as she was stuck in South Korea right until very last October owing to the pandemic just after she traveled back there for denim production.

A look from Goomheo’s fall 2022 collection. - Credit: A look from Goomheo RTW fall 2022 collection

A appear from Goomheo’s slide 2022 collection. – Credit score: A glance from Goomheo RTW slide 2022 assortment

A glance from Goomheo RTW fall 2022 assortment

“I was only scheduling to go back for three weeks but I could not arrive again mainly because my flight was canceled so a lot of times. Also, COVID-19 was getting quite serious there, so if I go back again to London, I had to quarantine. So I determined to stay,” Heo defined through a Zoom get in touch with.

Reconnecting with her culture throughout that time permitted her to see how substantially of her gender-fluid structure was unknowingly motivated by K-pop, as very well as cartoons and gaming. Even on the surface Korean culture attracts a very distinct line among gentlemen and women of all ages, the designer mentioned.

Now that she is again in London with a fall collection that additional exemplifies her gender fluid and out-of-the-box choose on men’s fashion, plus an LVMH Prize nomination, Heo thinks that she is all set to get back to the activity in comprehensive force, no matter of regardless of whether she helps make it to the final spherical of the LVMH Prize.

She also revealed that she plans to showcase independently for the duration of the men’s manner cycle from June in London to establish a much better partnership with consumers.

A look from Goomheo’s fall 2022 collection. - Credit: Courtesy

A seem from Goomheo’s drop 2022 collection. – Credit history: Courtesy


“For me, it doesn’t issue if I get into the ultimate or consider the massive prize. Obtaining the LVMH Prize nomination is now a substantial recognition. It provides me 200 % commitment to do my following collection,” she claimed.

The parts Heo took to the LVMH Prize showroom were from her slide 2022 collection, “Infinite Glacier,” which featured sculptural puffer parts, shorts with XL fur pockets, a fitted jacket with embroidered lapels down all the way to ankles, and statement boots with 3D printed oval buckles, which Heo hopes can grow to be a signature for the brand name, noticed both of those on male and female types.

“It truly does not subject what gender I am coming up with for. It’s the clients who are deciding what kind of clothes they are carrying, instead of me,” Heo said, adding that even though some customers did get confused at the commencing, the kind of merchants that appreciate her aesthetics, these as London’s Device-A and H.Lorenzo in Los Angeles, experienced no difficulty selling her styles in the stop.

A look from Goomheo’s fall 2022 collection. - Credit: Courtesy

A seem from Goomheo’s drop 2022 assortment. – Credit rating: Courtesy


Despite the awareness, Heo’s journey in manner has not been effortless. Identical to many Asian learners, Heo’s dad and mom had been furious at the starting when she instructed them that she was heading to examine vogue.

“I was meant to be an interpreter amongst Chinese, English and Korean. I went to the United States for that. Through the fifty percent-expression in my senior yr, I watched this documentary about the world’s finest 3 style schools, and Central Saint Martins was a person of them. Just after that, I just resolved that I wanted to do vogue. I give up my substantial faculty for that and my dad and mom ended up super mad, but later I received into the basis training course. So that’s how I commenced,” Heo recalled.

The simple fact that Heo was under no circumstances skillfully trained as an artwork university student like the the vast majority of the relaxation gave her the freedom to design and style in her very own way, which primarily will involve draping the garment straight on mannequins, alternatively of drawing designs 1st.

“I just cannot draw. I am even now not self-confident about that. I usually convey to my interns: ‘you just have to see how I drape,’” she stated.

“But I have this amazing pattern cutter, who has been doing the job with me considering that my B.A. collection for 7 yrs now. He understands me and he is the just one who made me understand that I never have to do the job the regular way. I can break all the policies and not care about whether or not it is for men or ladies,” she extra.

Start Gallery: Goomheo RTW Fall 2022 [Photos]

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